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Altobeli's Restaurant will not try to overwhelm you with nouvelle or fusion dishes where presentation is the only memorable facet of your dinner. What they will do, however, is take your breath away with wonderfully consistent appetizers, salads and entrees during each visit. A testament to Altobeli's consistency, the Italian restaurant has been in business since Atlantas suburban sprawl was in its toddler stage, Jan. 15, 1989. Altobeli's owners, Al Bashiri and Ben Shahbazi are loyal to repeat patrons and endeavor to make any visit whether its a romantic dinner for two or a pre-nuptial party of 22 enjoyable and exceptionally tasty. It had been roughly two years since we last visited Altobeli's, and upon sampling the Lumache alla Milanese, Caesar salad and garlic rolls before my entre, I wished we had returned sooner. I found the food to be just as it always had been scrumptious. The lumache (oven-baked snails topped with garlic butter and wine) is served piping hot and is nicely seasoned. The appetizer was delicious, as usual, as were my two other favorites, the Ripieno con Shrimp & Scallop and the Fritto di Calamari. The salad, served with fresh hearts of romaine, is tossed with one of the Northsides finest Caesar dressings. Altobeli's makes delicious homemade soups. My wife and I were impressed with the lentil soup, which was the perfect consistency. My personal favorite is their out-of-this-world white bean soup, and I rarely skip this Epicurean treat when it is available. While the menu has undergone few changes over the years, Altobeli's never fails to unveil a special entre to excite your taste buds. On this evening, my wife ordered the special, which consisted of a red snapper filet served with carrots, celery, zucchini, yellow squash and red peppers. Sauted in olive oil, lemon, rosemary and white wine, this wonderful summer ensemble was served over a bed of al dente linguini. It was exquisite. I chose my favorite entre, Vitello alla Cardinale, which is breaded veal scaloppine and eggplant baked with marinara sauce and mozzarella. It was superb. Shahbazi suggested a red Bordeaux to complement my main course. He selected a 1996 Chateau Coufran Haut-Medoc, which consists of 85 percent merlot and 15 percent cabernet sauvignon. It provided the perfect accompaniment to the marinara sauce. My other entre favorites at Altobeli's include Tortellini alla Fino, Salmon alla Piccata and Petto di Pollo Romana. We finished our dinner by sharing a slice of chocolate cake with Chambord, a moist, rich treat with generous icing and semi-sweet chocolate chips. Altobeli's cappuccino is another delight to consummate a great dining experience. Fresh ingredients, finely prepared traditional Italian dishes, a well-rounded wine list and warm, gracious hosts make Altobeli's the perfect neighborhood restaurant. However, the consistently fine meals make it worthy of a drive from anywhere in north metro Atlanta. Piano bar opens Thursday-Saturday from 7:30 p.m. til... Dinner is served Sunday-Thursday, 5-10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5-11 p.m. Luncheon available for private parties.